2001 - 5/20 - 5/25 - Allen's & Norman's Cay

Sunday, 5/20-  Warm and sunny.We left Nassau at 10:00 am.  It was the best passage yet: only 1 foot chop, very pleasant.  Allen’s Cay (AKA Leaf Cay) is a popular, protected anchorage populated with Iguanas.We were anchored by 2:15 pm. Another beautiful place but a little disappointed at first. The little cove surrounded by white sand beach that we wanted to anchor in was occupied by a sailboat.

Allen's Cay

Then two seaplanes and several fast boats from Nassau brought tons of tourists all congregated on Leaf Cay to observe the Iguanas. We got settled in at the opposite part of the anchorage in 25’ of water-a bit deeper than we like to anchor in. We had a nice dinner. The sky was full of starts but the ominous clouds we had been watching earlier were much closer now and filled with lightening. Wayne put down a second anchor - we settled down to watch “Stakeout”, a funny movie starring Richard Dreyfus.The movie was over about 9:00 and we could hear thunder in the distance.The clouds were definitely closer and the millions of stars we saw earlier were obliterated by a huge, dark storm cloud. It was kind of spooky. We also felt that the boat was not positioned just right. Sure enough, one of the anchors was dragging and BLUE MAX was swinging towards the rocks! Earlier, Wayne had a “brain fart” and had not put out enough chain. We scurried around the deck…he was naked…I had on shorts and top. We pulled the CQR but the Danforth (these are different types of anchors) line was twisted around it. It was pitch dark; the wind picked up; the rain started and the temperature was plummeting. I got the Q beam out (a very powerful light). We were definitely getting way too close to the rocky shoreline. It was a very tense situation. By 2'00 am the wind was still blowing and Captain Wayne was not happy with the anchors. I went to bed; he stayed up on anchor watch.  What a stressful night. It was my first experience of a serious problem & the first we had in more than a month of cruising.   Monday, 5/21 - Glorious morning after the storm. We’ve pretty much gotten into a routine, especially in the morning. I’m finding it glorious to luxuriate in bed if I want to. Wayne feels he has to be up at first light which, normally, would be OK if he could get up without turning on the damn VHF radio making tons of noise. Personally, I love it when he remains in bed and we get to have some intimate, unhurried time together. I enjoy breakfast – he prefers lunch – we compromise and have brunch. Coffee in the morning now seems to be the conduit to the bathroom because without that morning visit, we can’t do anything. (‘nuff said) We stayed a few days, we took the dinghy to Leaf Cay to see these famous Iguanas. We had to have a workday.(Who the hell made that rule up?) Took the aft cabin porthole windows off; I scraped the paint off the best I could then sanded the entire window. Wayne worked on the teak handrail and eyebrow on the outside of the aft cabin and put on a coat of Cetol. Unfortunately, he performed this task in the nude and got wretched sunburn on his nice little ass. We decided to leave on the 23rd but just as we were about to pull anchor, WOODJA sailed into the anchorage. We decided to stay another day. Just as Pete and Geneva dinghyed over to see us, the sailboat that was in the lagoon pulled anchor and left. Pete hightailed it back to WOODJA and moved into the coveted spot. (the one we wanted when we arrived) We spent the afternoon with them on their “private” beach. We all had dinner on BLUE MAX and Wayne and I learned how to play dominoes to the “jail house rules”.Thursday, 5/24 - Wind 15 - S-SW. Pulled anchor at 10:30 and left for Norman’s Cay Arrived at 2:30 pm. Nice run with 2’ chop. Cloudy but bright. Normans won notoriety as the base of the infamous Colombian drug runner, Carlos Leder during the days of Bahamian drug trading.  Visible signs of those days remain everywhere. We anchored in the cut near the old resort which had been “purchased” by Leder along with most of the South end of the

Norman's Cay anchorage

From the beach on Norman's Cay (Molly always seems to get in the picture!)

island.  He was in power for many years (1968-1982?) put into federal prison and is now free because he turned state’s evidence against General Noriega of Panama. A sunken drug plane rests in the shallows along side the anchorage. We explored most of the buildings; some directly on the beach and one at the top of the hill. You could see there once was a big commercial kitchen in one of the buildings.It appears this was once a very luxurious resort
at one time but now it is in shambles. There are even bullet holes in the walls. We traveled down a road that you could tell was once in good shape with stone borders but now is just a foot path. We found another abandoned and demolished house that appeared to be a multifamily unit; Leder probably used it as a barracks for his ‘soldiers’. (we love to fantasize- Hey it could be true!) Further down the road we located the airport runway and Mac Duff’s - a very eclectic resort, bar & restaurant. The DeFever Owner’s association were having a rendezvous in Norman’s Pond, a very protected anchorage but one which requires local knowledge to enter. We were invited and Wayne really wanted to join them in the pond but was reluctant because of the depth. We decided to check out McDuffs instead. We arrived just in

Beach cottages at McDuffs

time for happy hour and were please to learn that the DeFever group was coming for cocktails and dinner. Another couple recognized Wayne from the Trawler Fest in the Solomons, Diane and Steve aboard a 49’ DeFever named AURORA. They did not have a trawler before the ‘fest’ but sold their home and purchased it as their first boat. (I always say…go for the gusto…after all, what’s the worst that can happen?) It was an incredibly delightful evening. The Mac Duff “resort” is ideal with a bar, restaurant, patio, whirlpool, beach ‘mall’, rental cottages and the owners, Cat and Dale, live right on the beach. Dale uses his plane to obtain necessary supplies and food.  He found the property 10 years ago.

Cat & Dale

Cat has lived here, full time, since 1996. I could easily drop out if I had the same set up. I feel I would have problems just ‘doing nothing’ but something like this would work for me…I’m not sure what the retired live-aboards do every day – day in and day out - but I’m finding that my mind is mush with nothing particular to occupy it.We only spent $15 for 3 Kalik beers and 2 really good Bloody Marys - we lucked out

Cat using McDuff's famous outboard blender

Self Explanatory

they have only one happy hour a week & tonight was it: Another beautiful sunset but was a precursor to some unsettled weather. Friday, 5/25;  Cloudy; gentle rain; ugly day. No reason to get up early. Leisurely morning.Planned to snorkel but worked on the pictures and this log instead.  WOODJA called; changed their minds and went to Shroud Cay instead. Shroud is the next large Cay South of Norman’s.  Using binoculars, we could see boats anchored there. The afternoon brightened a bit. Swam around the boat, showered, then went to Mac Duff’s. No happy hour today  :>( .  Some people arrived via airplane, had a drink and took off again. (what a life!)      
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