2011 - 9-22 - Big Majors Cay - the Pig

9/22 Dingy ride to Big Major’s Cay to see if the pigs were still there. We all went ashore, but no pig ?? Scupper was running & rolling in the sand, have a good ole time. At first, she didn’t see big momma come out from behind the shrubs but when she looked up she slammed on the breaks - I could almost hear her saying “WTF!” This pig was big & ugly but kinda cute in a way - I think it was the way her snout stuck up…like a snob. She came right to the dinghy. By this time I had both pups in my arms cuz I didn’t trust her. At first, she didn’t seem aggressive or unsafe then she started making scary noises & moving all around the dinghy. She went one way, I went the other way. Wayne was laughing at me saying ’she won’t hurt you’. But then she moved behind Wayne - opened her mouth & went for his (very nice) butt. All he felt was a nudge but I assured him that had there been anything sticking out, she most surely would have taken a bite. Finally, she got bored with us, especially since we didn’t have any food for her - she retreated to the bush. We went about our veg-like state floating in the water when all of a sudden a fast boat zoomed around the rocks heading straight for the beach. At the same time, momma pig lunged out from the bushes, raced into the water & swam out to meet the boat full of tourists. By god, the damn thing can swim! We watched in amazement as she snuggled up to the boat & apples were hailing down around her…she couldn’t eat them fast enough. It was something to see & all the while, she was treading water! Did you ever see a pig do this??  The tourist boat left-she retreated never to be seen again.

2011 - 9- 19 - 9-20 - Staniel Cay

9/19 We arrived in Staniel Cay about 1:15, slowly cruised the harbor & anchored near the Yacht Club. So much has changed in 10 years - lots of new construction. It looks like they got much more damage from Irene than the northern islands; mostly dock damage from what we can see. We were hoping to have dinner at Club Thunderball but looks like they were closed. There are no other transient boats here…it’s summer after all, they’re the smart ones. Staniel got recognition in 1964 when they filmed “Thunderball” & used the Grotto somehow. They also filmed “Never Say Never Again” as well as the Disney movie, “Splash“. (which I didn’t know)

I was ready for dinner out. I reviewed my notes from 2001 & remembered the Yacht Club was ‘pricey’ & food only so so. We heard on the VHF from another restaurant that they were serving dinner from 6-8. Never did get the name, but it was a deep purple building on the beach close to our anchorage. We took the dinghy & were delighted to find a plan & simple little place filled with locals where the prices were right. Owned by John & Bernadette, they have twin sons & an older son, Dereko. I got Cracked Conch & Wayne, Fish fingers & wine of course. It was an interesting night…talked US & Bahamian

politics, about the island, watched some TV & John let me use his computer for email. We’re still having computer issues; can’t connect to Internet Explorer therefore can’t connect to our high powered wifi antennae. I connected via the computer to “Exuma wifi” & paid for 3 days. Used it for a very short time, then disconnected. Called the yacht club for help but since we purchased the use via PayPal a guy named

Baptist Church

Steve is the only one who can help; We used the manager’s phone to contact him & of course, he didn’t return our calls all day. Dave, the bartender let me use his computer. Our dear friends, Tom & Laurel, from Green Cove Springs were making plans to meet us in Georgetown. By the time I got her 3-day old mail, they wanted to come this Friday, the 23rd. We can’t make it down there by then. So emails flew back & forth using Dave’s computer. They’re coming on the 30th. It’s amazing how much we now depend on instant communication & when you don’t have it…well… think about that. On the 20th we took the dinghy thru the cut to Isles Grocery - talk about a change…this used to be a quaint little store on the beach. Here’s what it looks like now. Not much inventory but got OJ, cabbage, potatoes, celery & transmission fluid. Poor Wayne, they were out of ice cream.

This is the message you get when you tie into a local wifi; I thought it was pretty funny:

“This service uses a satellite uplink for all traffic. On its best day, it will seem slow compared to any land-based service. It's 22 thousand miles to the satellite, which means it's 44 thousand miles before your request hits the Internet, and 44 thousand for the data to come back. No matter how you slice it, 88 thousand miles may take more than a few seconds for a response. So remember, you're in the Central Exumas with the most beautiful water and Cay's anywhere on the planet. Fast Internet is available at most office buildings and cubicles in the states. Would you really want to trade where you are for a cubicle?”

The secret to happy surfing on a slow network?

1. Click on the link

2. Take a drink of your Kalik (this is a local beer)

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 above until network appears to have blazing speed.

This is the in & outside of the Yacht Club & Wayne talking to the only blonde on the island. They added to the rental cottages since ‘01 & a new pool area behind them. Nice set up. We went in search of the ‘bread lady’ (in the pink top) who lives near the Baptist church. Her oven is broken…sadly, no home-made bread to be found on the entire island! I suggested that the Yacht Club take up donations to repair or replace the oven.

2011 - 9-15 - 9-18 - Warderick Wells

9/15 to 9/18 Arrived about 1:30 & took mooring 16. We’re virtually alone here. This is the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park (Bahamas National Trust) Gorgeous as ever…the weather & water temp is perfect. This is the reconstructed skeleton of a whale washed ashore at Norman’s many years ago. I’d like to make a comment about the pictures I take. I use Picasa 3, a free downloadable program, love it & have used it for years. Basically, the only tools I use is ‘crop’, ‘straighten‘, ‘contrast’ & occasionally, ‘sharpen’…I do not enhance the colors. Sometimes, as in this picture of the sailboat in the harbor, I use my sunglasses as a filter. But Picasa has a multitude of other tools. Nuff said… We snorkeled in Ranger’s reef next to the boat. Unfortunately, my underwater camera is being finicky so I don’t have a picture of some of the biggest lobster we’ve ever seen. We actually didn’t do too much even though there are many reefs to snorkel & ruins from the Loyalists. The ranger station is interesting, informative & has a book exchange. I donated “The Winner” by Baldachi & picked up a Patricia Cornwell book. Gotta admit, we were just plain lazy. We read for the first time in a long time & I taught Wayne how to play my favorite casino card game - Let It Ride - he’s hooked & he doesn’t even like to play cards. Late in the afternoon the dogs started barking & howling at the water, Scupper dashing all around the decks & peering down the haws-pipes…what the heck?? This friendly little nurse shark, maybe a 4 footer, came by for a visit & stayed till sunset. And what a magnificent sunset it was. (I didn’t use sunglasses to filter)

2011 - 9-12 - 9-14 - Hawksbill Cay

We left the area on Tuesday the 12th heading south looking for another perfect spot. We were now in the Exumas Cays Land & Sea Park that encompasses about 200 sq. miles. (“about 22 miles from Wax Cay to Conch Cut, enclosing & protecting the cays & surrounding waters from Shroud Cay in the north to Little Bell Island in the south“) It is devoted to the preservation of the rare Bahamian iguana. (rare?? I'm gonna send all our Iguana over to them!) NO FISHING-bummer. We decided to see what it was like on the west side of Hawksbill, an uninhabited Cay - it was perfect. The park placed huge & substantial mooring balls all over the park…we tied up to one. The rope was so big it wouldn’t fit thru the haws pipe - we chained it to the bridle. We found out that the ‘150’ on the ball was made for a vessel up to 150’ - we’d stay here any day during a storm. Interesting island; there are extensive ruins of a Loyalist plantation on top of a hill; a cave called

                            Molly - the Braveheart

Smuggler’s Cave; a coral garden; &, of course, beautiful beaches. Exploration will wait until tomorrow as Wayne is exchanging out the old zincs for new ones. The wind picked up & changed from the east to the north - Rockin & a Rollin… still no internet. Moved the boat to the south end of the island hoping for less surge. The wind & waves were not in sync so we tied 1 line from the bow to the buoy & 1 line to the buoy from amidships…voila! It turned the bow into the waves & no rockin! Gotta love engineers. After the clouds dissipated, the sky was a deep, deep blue.

Fun day at the beach. After the clouds dissipated, the sky was a deep, deep blue.

2011 - 9-5 - 9-11 - Nassau - Allens Cay - Norman's Cay

                     Leaving Nassau - Ft. Montague- East side

9/5 - 9/11 Couldn’t believe we’ve been here a whole week! Gotta get a move on. The fuel is good here so we topped off the tank with 200 gal. - paid cash for the $.14/gal discount. We left at 11:45 & anchored in Allan’s Cays at 4:45. “The Allens Cays Group consists of SW Allan’s Cay, Allan’s Cay & Leaf Cay. Leaf Cay is by far the prettiest & most accessible in the group…This group of Cays is one of the remaining habitats of Iguanas in the Bahamas. Iguanas in The Bahamas are protected by law…”? Hell, we have bigger & prettier Iguanas at home than here. (If you can call an Iguana pretty) & they’re

suggesting you kill them because they’re over-running the Keys. I caught a crummy 3’ barracuda on the way. He's SO outta here.  It’s so quiet, the solitude & clear water mesmerizes us. I got free wifi access from Highborne Cay which is a private island & never free. Wayne cleaned the bottom & prop then discovered all of the zincs need to be changed. Figure they disintegrated due to the multiple marinas we’ve been in. At least they did their job…but now, where the heck do we go to get more?? Back to Nassau? You’re kidding-right? In the meantime, Tropical Storm Maria has formed east of the Lesser Antilles. The cone shows it will be awfully close to the Bahamas. On the 8th, we headed back to Nassau & anchored in the harbor next to the Green Parrot…thoughts of a juicy blue cheese burger danced in our heads. Forget it, we’re eating on the boat tonight. Well, that sucks canal water!

9/9 Bright & early (well, sorta) we side-tied at Nassau Yacht Harbor-closest to the marine stores. Wayne went in search of zincs, I went in search for jugs of Carlo Rossi red wine. I must have visited 7 liquor stores in a 1 mile radius- no red wine. I settled for Sangria. Wayne got some zincs but not all he wanted. We both went to the City Market a few blocks away to get OJ & a few other items. We left Nassau at 1:00 & anchored in Allan’s Cays (again) at 5:45pm. Steady breeze from the east made for good sleeping that night…but the mosquitoes were really annoying! Did I tell you the Bahamas have an outbreak of Dengue Fever? It’s not enough to worry about hurricanes, we have to fear Dengue too? Who’s idea was it to travel in the summer anyway?? 9/10 Wayne was naked while stowing the dock lines (actually, he's always sans clothes when no one is around)when a fast boat, filled with tourists, came roaring in the pass then slowly went past us on the way to the beach. Wayne quickly hit the deck but not before half the people saw him. (grin) No internet since 9/8. My grandson, Nicholas, should have been born on the 8th. We had free internet via Highborne while in Allan’s a few days ago, but this time we couldn’t connect for free - it‘s $10/day - OK, we’ll pay - but they wouldn’t let us - “it’s for Marina guests only“. In addition, we can’t get local stations on TV to check on the storm. I called Highborne Marina - they say forecast for Maria should be well to our east & on Tuesday, winds of only 20-30. If that’s the case, it’s no worse than a squall in the Keys. About 10, we left Allan’s heading south on the Banks; hugged the southern end of Lobster Cay, past un-named rocks (unusual, even rocks have a name here)& tried to anchor off Saddle Cay which is at the Northern tip of Norman’s…beautiful spot. We carefully worked our way in but depth dropped to 4‘ (we draw 5') we quickly

                       MacDuff's beach cottage rentals

backed out very slowly. Anchored on the west-side (Banks) of Norman’s Cay across from MacDuff’s. We were anxious to see it again, but as Wayne says, “you can’t go back”…he’s right. They lost half their The original bar was from the wall behind Wayne to where he's sitting

Durae & Wayne

beach where the rental cabins are; the shrubs have taken over; the whirlpool is gone; the quaint little bar has been extended, & a large, but cozy porch area was added (I have to admit, this addition is nice); & Cat & Del have moved to Belize. (to see how it was, go to my ‘01 Bahamas blog) There’s still an active air-strip. This is off season so we didn’t expect to see anyone, however, we were greeted by Victor, our 12 year-old bartender! Cutie…(reminds me of my grandson, Anthony) His mom, Durae, & her boyfriend were visiting for the week-end. She’s been coming to Norman’s since 1984. Very pretty & interesting woman. She lives in Lyford Cay - West side of New Providence & also in Jupiter, FL. Victor goes to a private school in Lyford. She’s also a pilot. She & Wayne talked for hours with me giving input every now & then. The owner has a darling, but madcap 13 week-old puppy named Salt. Play, play, play is all he wants out of life…but the girls would have none of it. He also has an old Chiwawa named Pepper who ventured from his cozy bed to see what all the fuss was about. He liked Wayne. Our intention when going ashore was to take Molly & Scupper to the beach…we never did get there. Oh well, there’s more to come but not everyday that you get to meet interesting people. Two guys flew in for a burger. Their job is to check all the water systems on each island - what a job, hugh? Durae took some pictures of US for a change…I like this one. On 9/11 The dreaded 10 yr anniversary & since no news or internet, we don’t know if the threats we heard about while in Nassau were carried out. We hung out on the boat, went for a swim & basically did nothing in particular. “Norman’s is one of the Exumas’ longest islands south of Highborne Cay that offers cruisers good snorkeling, diving, fishing & beachcombing as well as access to both Exuma Sound & Exuma Bank“. Many years ago it was also home to a Columbian, Carlos Enrique Lehder, who ensconced himself as ruler of a powerful drug smuggling ring. He was deported from the Bahamas in 1982”. He was in power for many years (1968-1982), put into federal prison and is now free because he turned state’s evidence against General Noriega of Panama. You can see many bullet holes in the buildings. Before he took over the south end of the island, it was a ritzy resort for the rich & famous.



2011 - 9-27 - The Wahoo and the Wench

Tuesday, 9/27 We pulled anchor at 10:30, through the pass & out into the deep water of the Sound. I put my trolling line out even before we entered the pass. It was 7-8 hours to George Town but plans were uncertain if we would go straight through or anchor at Lee Stocking Island. We could see rain over the islands as we cruised southward. I was relaxing on the fly bridge when my pole bent over &
the line screeched out…FISH ON…I could tell it was a decent size but no idea yet what it was. We saw that it was a good sized Bull Dolphin (no, not Flipper). Excitement grew as we got it onto the swim platform…real puurdy & heavy! I was just getting ready to secure my pole & help bring him on board when Wayne let some slack in the line - he took the advantage & spit the hook (the fish, not Wayne)…off he swam. I guess you know I was NOT a happy camper & Wayne repeated over & over, “I’m so sorry…but there’s more out there“…yea-right! Line back out. Hours flew by, I found things to do around the boat. I was in the galley when I heard Wayne yell, FISH ON. I went running. My pole was bent almost in half, the line was singing out off the reel. Tension was so great on the pole I had a hell of a time getting it out of the holder. I put the pole in my belt & the fight began…lasted maybe an hour. Scupper was by my side the entire time. My joints were sore, my arms turned to jelly, my hands cramped & hurting. This guy was huge. Closer & closer until we could see him - OMG! It looked like a barracuda! I said, “I couldn’t have gone through all this for a stinking bad ass barracuda!” I brought him in closer - I think it’s a Wahoo…it IS a Wahoo - !!WAHOO!! Then he took his final run...Must’ve gone out 300 feet (they can swim 50mph you know). Good grief, I’ve got to do this all over again! Finally, we landed him onto the swim platform. Wayne took no chances this time & gaffed the sucker then, with all his strength, pulled him up on deck. The girls were going nuts barking, biting & scratching all over his body (the fish, not Wayne). He was 55” to the fork & must’ve weighed at least 50 lbs. This is a game-fisherman’s 'dream fish' & the meat is to die for.

Now the real work begins to filet & package up meals. He was so heavy I had to clean him on the deck. It took 2 hands & all my strength to just pick up the filets. I set aside a substantial amount for a dinner when Tom & Laurel arrive & the rest were wrapped in plastic wrap then vacuumed packed & frozen. All in all, about 30 meals for two. I was spent & vegged out on the fly bridge. We arrived in Elizabeth Harbour about 6 pm. We got internet but no TV. Another beautiful, star-filled night.

2011 - 9-22 - 9-27 - Black Point - Little Farmers

9/22 - 9/26 After leaving the peace & quiet of the beach, we took the long way back to the boat. Simply beautiful. Clear, clean water - we could clearly see the bottom in 30’ water. Scattered homes here & there on mostly uninhabited little islands just off Staniel. We circled the Grotto but unable to see the opening we entered last time. ?? We did see an opening but was mostly blocked by enormous rocks & I know they were not there 10 years ago…a land-slide perhaps? Anchor up & headed south to Black Point which is on Great Guana Cay. I caught 2 Mackerel on our way south. That took care of dinner that night. Per 1996 information: “This settlement is the largest in the Exuma Cays with about 300 people (except those on Great Exuma) …known for its friendly & welcoming villagers, Black Point is the only settlement on Great Guana Cay”

I really liked this little town & was anxious to see the changes our friend, Laura, told us about. Not to mention getting cracked conch @ Lorraine’s. However, the weather wasn’t cooperating…gloomy with intermittent rain on Friday, rained all day on Saturday with severe lightening. I feel sorry for the couple we met at Staniel Yacht Club who were getting married on a beach today.

Because of the storms all around us, we had 2’ swells all night long-it was all we could do to not fall out of bed. We pulled the anchor at 9:30 am on Sunday, the 25th arrived & anchored in a cove

at the  north end of Big Farmer’s Cay. This is a junction where there’s a pass out to the sound with depths of up to 50’ (could see bottom here too); Great Guana ends north of the pass; Big Farmers begins on the

Little Farmers Cay Yacht Club

south side & Little Farmers is west of the pass. Little Farmers is one Cay we’ve not been to. While diddling around on the boat, a speed boat came in the harbor from the sound & stopped to say hello. They speared 2 grouper & offered us one- hell yes…we’ll take it. Agreed to meet at their cottage on the beach for happy hour. I made pasta salad; they grilled chicken & grouper…what a feast & a wonderful, unexpected evening. Terry, Barb, Don & Lottie live in Miami.  Terry & Barb own the beach property & tiny cottage which they plan to enlarge by putting a second story on top.  9/26 Terry Bain & his wife, Earnestine, owns Ocean Cabin, a restaurant & convience store.We spent hours talking with him in the afternoon then gave him our order for dinner at 6pm. Wayne                             Ocean Cabin on the right

found a hammock under a big tree - that’s where he placed his order for dinner. We were on a mission to find bread as Earnestine doesn't make it anymore. Brenda said she would make us 2 loaves & would be ready by 5pm. These guys were cleaning a whole slew of little snapper, grunts etc…they scale & clean them ready for pan frying.(none for me thank you very much)

We returned to Brenda’s Kitchen & found ourselves face to face with a herd of little kids just waiting for new blood to play with. And we all had

      Little Farmer's Yacht Club & harbour as seen from Ocean Cabin

a ball. They were intrigued with Wayne - taking his hat off putting it on backwards, buttoning & unbuttoning his shirt, feeling the hair on his arms & chest.

It was quite the scene. Soon their teacher & principle came by to help celebrate a birthday…they sure got good in a hurry.

Terry says there are 55 people living on the island today. An outsider cannot buy or build on Little Farmers-only by birth or marriage. He also wrote: “Little Farmers is approximately 1 ¼ miles long by 7/8 mile wide...The smaller bay is named Little Harbour, the larger…Big Harbour. The 2 harbours are separated by a piece of land called the Point. The names given to them by our ancestors when they settled here over 165 years ago…Little Farmers was settled by freed slaves from Exuma. One woman named Chrisanna, with her young children...bought all of the Cay & willed it to their descendants to be undivided as tenants in common…” They have a 2,500 ft paved airstrip & the highest point on the Cay is the 60’ Dabba Hill. Many years ago Terry organized an annual event called the 5 ‘Fs’; Farmers Festival First Friday February with competitions, children’s events, food throughout the day & dancing at night. (I wanna go!) Dinner was really good but the company afterwards was even better. In the meantime, there was a

Earnestine

birthday party (girl in the middle, her sister on the right) going on at Ali’s Bar but ended before I could go & have more fun.(Ali's bar is maybe 8X10) I don’t think we left until 11ish after drinking about 3 bottles of wine. I guess you can tell we really liked it here.

Unfortunately, we had to move on to meet Tom & Laurel in George Town by the 30^th. We pulled anchor at 10:30 on the 27^th.