Thursday, June 28, 2007

2007 - 6/26 - 6/28 - New Plymouth - Man O' War

Tuesday, June 26; New Plymouth. We were on the fly bridge reading; Wayne is reading Soldat, a story about WWII and I’m reading Split Second by David Baldacci and Laurel came by to return the flashlight.  After chatting awhile, we decided to go to town and see Black Sound where her boat is moored. We tied the dinghy up at a place called Pineapples an outside bar, restaurant with a salt-water pool.
Pineapples bar & pool
We never did leave Pineapples.  We were able to walk back to see Black Harbor so it wasn’t a total wasted trip. The girls had great fun with the other people there as we did. We invited Laurel to join us to cruise south until Tom returned from the States.Wednesday, June 27; Wayne and Laurel picked up salad fixins, bread, butter and oil for the boat and we were off.  We listened to the cruiser’s net on channel 68 and the weather forecast was dismal calling for 100% rain and squalls. So when did that ever stop us? We pulled anchor and headed south. The bay was choppy but then we had to cross Whale Cay passage they say can be very dangerous because it takes you out to the Atlantic side.We had rough seas, maybe 5 footers but Blue Max did well as usual.  We opted not to go to Treasure Cay (way too uppity) or Great Guiana but chose to stay at Man Of War. It seemed like a interesting Cay and very protected. We entered the southwest side of the Cay on the lee side and meandered around the many anchored and moored boats. I told Wayne
Cottage on Man O' War harbor
that I would consider selling the cottage for one like this...it's probably a boat house but just our speed!  The harbor was way to tight for us to fit in so we anchored outside the north entrance to the harbor and plan to go ashore in the morning.  Happy hour followed by meat loaf, mashed potatoes and the movie, First Wives Club. Laurel fell asleep in the middle of the movie.
Thursday, June 28; Stormy, rain all morning. Shame, we planned to go ashore today. Plan B; I worked on the log and the pictures, Wayne and Laurel were deeply involved in their respective books, the girls snuggled in their beds.  It finally cleared somewhat so we donned our rain gear and went ashore. This is a dry town (not today) meaning you cannot buy liquor or cigarettes; restaurants don’t serve alcohol nor is there a bar in town, but the town is quaint as hell. Wandered a bit, got a few things at the grocery.

More bread from Lila, the 'bread lady' on Man O' War
We were told Lila, the bread lady, was delivering her bread via golf cart and if you wanted any, you had to find her. A woman with a golf cart gave us a ride to track her down. Laurel bought a loaf of bread and cinnamon buns for breakfast.  It was all we could do to resist eating them immediately. This is a working town. All petroleum products and services, including mechanical, refrigeration and cosmetic repairs, prop changes, underwater work and repairs and a fleet of water taxis with scheduled service to Marsh Harbor/Hope Town. Boats are built at several yards; some have been winners for the annual Family Islands Regatta. Interestingly, one of the most illustrious sailing vessels built here is the 70-foot topsail schooner William H. Albury. She represented the Bahamas in the Tall Ships Race and Operation Sail in 1976. The marina owners are planning to build 23 upscale, turnkey Villas, ($595,000/$695,000) 4 hotel suites, restaurant, upgraded marina and pool on their site. The renderings of the resort are nice but what a shame to screw up one of the most peaceful harbor/settlement in the Bahamas. It was late in the afternoon and soon everything will shut down.  The ‘blacks’ (hey, not my term-that's what the locals call them) were already heading for home on the water taxis. It was still drizzling which made exploring a bit tough and we’re glad we didn’t bring the dogs. I needed garlic for my pasta dinner so we headed to the grocery before they closed at 5:30. A little salad, pasta, Italian sausage and wine for dinner. Watched The Mask of Zorro with sexy Antonio Bandaras and the beautiful Katherine Zeta Jones. Laurel fell asleep again.

Monday, June 25, 2007

2007 - 6/23 - 6/25 - Green Turtle / New Plymouth

Saturday, June 23 to 25th; We arrived at Green Turtle Cay located in White Sound on the north side of Green Turtle Cay and decided to take a dock. Traveling thru the harbor you notice much newer construction but still keeping the ambiance of the area. It’s an older resort but rather upscale for us but what the heck…we are on vacation and we deserve a bit of luxury now and then. Very pleasant and clean resort with a beach and a fresh water pool. Tonight is their first buffet of the ‘season’ held on the beach with a band and bonfire - we signed up. Good food and lots of fun. We lounged around the
pool on Sunday. Since I didn’t want to spend the equivalent of a weeks’ pay for dinner at their restaurant, we grabbed a really great cheeseburger at the pool-now that’s extravagance!
Memorial Garden
We left the ‘club’ around noon and traveled a short distance to the south end of Green Turtle to the town of New Plymouth. A wonderfully quaint town with small, clean, well maintained streets and wonderful ‘conch’- looking cottages.   This is the sister city to Key West and after visiting the Loyalist Memorial Garden, I see where KW got the idea of

our new memorial garden at Mallory Square. In addition, the names of the residents and founding fathers are the same as our KW old time Conchs – Curry, Lowe, Roberts, Albury, Pinder, Sawyer. We met a couple who suggested we might enjoy a visit to Miss Emily’s, the home of the original Goombay Smash.
W&W & the girls @ Miss Emily's
We figured it was 5 o'clock somewhere…By the way, the drink was fabulous - we had several. There was a group of people from Naples we could tell had been there for sometime. One of the women looked so
Kashmir & Wayne @ Miss Emily's (I love this picture)
familiar to me but I couldn't place her. After chatting a bit, turns out she was one of my supervisors at Naples Community in 1984 - Nancy Hone (now Thompson) We remembered each other but boy do we look different now. What a small world.  We also met Laurel who is on a 38'
Miss Emily's beautiful daughter
sailboat moored in Black Sound. She lives in Green Cove Springs (St John’s River) with Tom who owns a marina there. Tom had to fly back on business so she was alone for a few days.
Laurel & Winnie
We invited her back to the boat. We had more drinks - I threw together a quick fish dinner. We gave Laurel a flash light so she could dinghy back in the darkness. A very pleasant evening.

Friday, June 22, 2007

2007 - 6/19 - 6/22 - Carters; Allen-Pensecola; Nunjack Cays

Tuesday, June 19;           
 We disconnected the power cords - eliminating the only luxury on Rosie’s dock - air conditioning. We set sail for another days’ adventure on the high seas. Winds calm, sun shining, perfect temperature - actually, a bit on the cool side under the new & insulated hard top.  Haven’t a clue where we’d like to go; Strangers? Carters? Fox Town?  Decided on Carter’s where there is an abandoned missile tracking station. We traveled south of Double Breasted then Wayne got that 'adventure thing' going again. Instead we headed north between Rhoda Rocks and Strangers Cay Rocks.  Now we were traveling E SE between Strangers Cay and the barrier reef.  Time to cut bait or fish mates! I hooked a few pain in the ass

Yellowtail for dinner
Barracuda, something large in the Jack family, and several, really nice Yellowtail for dinner.  Wandered into Carter’s and of course came in different than the charts suggest.  Wayne said he’s going to write his own charts.  There were 4 locals’ boats moored there but unmanned.  A good stop over but no reason to go ashore.  
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20; another beautiful day.  Following the charts, Wayne exited Carter’s anchorage straight into the shallows and we went aground - fortunately for us it was just sand. Happy no one was around as it is sooooo embarrassing. The water is so clear that a depth of 10’ looks like you’re in 3’ of water. Wayne took the dinghy to sound out the area while I coaxed the boat in forward – reverse – forward – reverse - turned the wheel until she finally floated free.  Wayne found enough water to get us outa there. We anchored outside Fox Town on Little Abaco but for some reason, we didn’t feel comfortable and had no desire to go ashore. We pulled anchor and headed for Allen’s/Pensacola.These used to be separate islands until a storm joined them together. Initially, we anchored by Allen Rocks on the west side but it had little to no protection from W SW winds that we were having. It was too late in the day to move so we stayed the night. Who would want to leave anyway ????
Thursday, June 21;  One chart shows scattered coral heads, decent depth and two anchorages on the east side of Allen's/Pensacola, the other chart shows “unsurveyed” with no anchorages. Hell, what’s the worst that can happen?? We moved to the East side and discovered paradise! We’ve each been to many beaches, but we both agreed that this was the nicest beach we’ve ever encountered.  The sand felt like finely sifted flour, the water was clear as Vodka; No rocks, no obstructions, just sandy beach as far as you could see with Australian pines for shade. The camera couldn’t capture the beauty. It doesn’t get much better than this. There were some thunder boomers and thick clouds north of us, but never stormed by us. We vegged, we almost decided to stay here for the remainder of the trip but reality kicked in - after all, we did come all this way to see as much of the Abacos as we could.  Happy hour, dinner and a movie but it was hard to stay inside when there were a zillion stars out there calling to us.  Wayne was in his lounge chair on the fly bridge, and everything was right with the world.
Friday, June 22;  The weather is still pretty perfect- no rain, scattered clouds, gentle breezes. The winds seem to be clocking around a bit.  We’re only able to get bits & pieces of the weather- some sort of disturbance in north FL.? We headed south past Spanish, Powell & Ambergris Cays trolling all the way but no luck this time. Once again, we anchored on the east and “unsurveyed” side of Nunjack (some say

Nunjack Cay
Manjack) – way more coral heads but the water depth about 20’ or 5-6 meters. (new charts are in meters now) Remember I said it couldn’t get much better?? Ummm, I was wrong. WOW!! What a spot.
We explored while the girls played and swam and got full of sand again. As you can see by the   pictures, the weather was perfect, seas dead calm, wispy, cool breezes . Another lazy day in paradise. After dark, the water was full of those sea animals that float on top that makes the water looks like its full of glittering diamonds. Usually you need to swish something in the water to make them glisten, but tonight, the water sparkled as far as you could see.  The moon was bright and will be full in a few days.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

2007 - June - Grand Cay, Bahamas

Monday, June 18;  Onward! to Grand Cay which is NW of us and just south of Walkers.  We learned that Walkers is totally shut down as a result of multiple storms and the original owner died and the heirs are bickering over what to do with the property (I’ll take it!).  We docked at Rosie’s. Rosie has a hand in everything in town- grocery, fuel, restaurant & now building guest rooms on the waterfront. Rosie is a guy – a huge guy- but a real sweetie.  We wandered around - I stopped frequently to meet the people and take pictures.
This is Angel & Blake; Jason & his kids, Brenae, Legine,
Angel & Blake
Brenyelle; & Devenie to name a few.  There was a Baptist & Pentecostal church, a cemetery, 2 grocery stores, a (new) pizza place, school, government building that housed police, court room & post office & a Batelco tower of course. A new medical clinic is being built- they have a male nurse who I didn’t meet but did meet Dolly, the Med Tech
Dolly, Winnie & Corine
(on my right in the picture below) & Corine; The pretty lady with great smile is Inez, she works at Rosie’s Grocery store where I met so many people.  We had dinner at Rosie’s –
Inez
cracked Conch, Turtle steak & lobster tail.  Adjourned to the bar area where I watched 4 guys play the fastest game of dominoes I've ever seen.  They taught me how to play for money.  

Saturday, June 16, 2007

2007 - 6/12 - 6/16 - Double Breasted Cay, Bahamas


Left West End about 11:00 on Tuesday, June 12- after filling out a zillion papers, all of which was a bunch of bullshit and repetitive information.  This is 2007 for heavens sake and we’re completing forms in duplicate! We had Internet while here. With the Bahamian flag flying we left the dock and head for Sale Cay-about 40 miles east.  A bit of Southerly wind, and a bit on the cloudy side, but, never the less, another perfect day.  No pain in my left butt but starting to feel low back pain again but nowhere near the level as before.
Anchor down at 5:20 at Great Sale Cay, a low, flat, marshy & scrubby Cay but a good stop over provides good shelter in winds from W-SW. Hearty salad & Conch fritters for dinner.  Wayne, on the fly bridge, in his recliner – me, I watched Sleepy Hollow starring the incomparable, Johnny Depp.  Lightening in the E-NE but the stars were shining brightly over the boat.  Thunderstorms sometime during the night with wind gusts and choppy seas.
Wednesday, June 13 - overcast, intermittent sun, wispy wind but no rain.  Lazy morning.  Wayne slept in as he was up & down all night worried about the anchor even though the anchor alarm was on.  The girls & I slept like the dead! I made the coffee this morning but not as good as Wayne’s brew (shush, don’t tell him I said so).  

Wayne was intent on connecting the new hard top with the bonding on the boat to make it be safer in a lightening storm.  I just wanted off the boat. I took snorkel gear & the girls to shore.  Uninhabited and shabby island not much to see.  We wandered around a bit and it was good to stretch our legs -all 10 of them.  The girls ran and; ran, got full of sand then wanted to rub
Molly
all over me… Wayne managed to finish his project; we moved the boat a bit closer to the ‘crotch’ of the island then took the dinghy to another, nicer beach on the north tip of the island. Relaxing day.  Nothing exciting to photograph.
Been dying for a cheeseburger hoagie (burger w/tomato, lettuce, onions, mayo)– Wayne, fire up the grill!
We played full game of Scrabble – Wayne made a noble effort of keeping up with me -but I still left with the winner’s trophy. Visions of Captain Ron danced in my head as I dozed off…
Thursday, June 14  - Ah...the dawn of another beautiful day  (as Martin Short said in Captain Ron) – or so we thought until we woke up enough to realize that we were inundated by mosquitoes! Anchor up as fast as possible and headed north. After swooshing out most of the nasty bloodsuckers, we had to make a decision - where to go next?…Walker’s, Grand Cay, Double Breasted, or go a bit south to Stranger’s or Carter’s Cay.  Give you one guess which one appealed the most to Wayne?? Double Breasted...here we come. Very, very tricky entrance to the anchorage, the tide was going out - almost at an ebb but the midday sun made it easier to do visual water readings…the girls were also on watch. Such a beautiful spot - difficult to capture the whole host of blues and color of the sand. We set 2 anchors as there are strong currents at tide change and not much swing room.
Anchorage seen from top of our hard top
Low tide exposed many sand bars so we were able to explore a large area on foot.  The sand is almost pure white, soft and deep and was like walking in quick sand- that’s if anyone survives from walking in quick sand – some places we sunk up to our knees.  Great exercise for the whole body, which is something I sorely need after working in an office for almost 12 years! Yeah, yeah, I’ll exercise tomorrow; I floated in the channels between the sandbars back to the dinghy. The dogs were full of sand – they rolled, they dug holes, they ran after the seagulls, they swam –and me without my camera. They’re gonna sleep good tonight. Returned to the boat for a rest – yes, a rest, we worked hard today. 
About 4:00, Wayne decided he wanted to put the teak handholds up under the hard top – now? You’re going to start a new project now? Normally I wouldn’t care, but these projects always require my help too. We managed to get one installed – looks great – let’s rest.
Cap't Wayne blowing sunset horn

Beautiful sunset. Boaters usually celebrate sunset by blowing conch shells – Wayne uses a ‘fake’ conch shell almost sounds the same. It was his dads and he called it an Italian bugle.
Salad, fresh Mahi, (that’s Dolphin - not Flipper), leftover cracked conch (yum) and rice for dinner.  I fried up a few bananas (from home) with brown sugar, French cream and Chombord – WOW!
Movie time; we watched,” Are we there yet?” cute, funny family movie.
Opening and closing hatches all night as rainstorms passed through – again.
Friday, June 15; overcast; threatening to rain, heavy clouds all around us. Not a pretty day. We were going to dinghy over to Grand Cay but decided to wait for better weather. Didn’t do much of anything but managed to install both the handholds under the hard top. I was the lucky one to be perched on top of the hard top (about 16’ above the water line). I carted my camera along and took pictures - awesome views.
It cleared up - the sun came out late in the afternoon. Unsuccessful attempts to get bait fish so we went to the ‘spa’.  Everyone calls it that, but no one knows why. I was hoping for warm, swirling water and a 25-year-old muscled blond guy to give me a full body massage. (in my dreams!) I made Stroganoff for dinner.  I never had this until a few months ago and now I’m hooked.  Watched – “Bad Boys II”.  Will Smith and Martin Lawrence they always give you a good show. Big time thunder, lightening and heavy rain all night.

Saturday, June 16; Heavy rain, no clearing in sight. No reason to get up from my warm, toasty, cozy bed so the girls and I stayed in till 10:00!  I had to literally push the dogs out on deck and close the door so they would ‘go’.  Weird – they swim all day, get full of sand and all of a sudden they don’t want to get their feet wet from the rain– go figure!


 

Lazy, lazy day; I worked on the log, started my home study course for Case Management credits, Wayne read magazines. He had been playing with organizing a maintenance log or something that would document repairs, additions, changes, upgrades, preventative maintenance etc.  He asked for my help – gladly. About 3:00 pm we emerged from the forward cabin to find the rain finally stopped, the sun was out and turned into a gorgeous day. Packed up the beach chairs,umbrella, Molly, Scupper & headed for the beach.
Another perfect day at the beach
I’m reading “The Perfect Storm”. If you saw the movie you figure that I have to be really nuts to read a story about a fishing trawler that looks somewhat like Blue Max with stabilizers (Paravanes and birds) like we have; who get caught in the convergence of 3 freak storms and never to be heard from again. The book is a real page-turner.

Monday, June 11, 2007

2007 - 6/11 - The Crossing






Haulover Cut - Good bye USA
Monday, June 11;  No wind, no chop, sun’s just coming up– Couldn’t ask for a better day to cross.  So maybe the Dolphin legend must be true.  We were out through Haulover pass by 7:00 am. Only a wisp of wind…the sea looked like a lake. Gorgeous day – a perfect day! 
I got my fishing poles and gear ready; put on the fighting belt. I’m ready for the big one…  The first strike was so-so but still exiting but also disappointing when we saw it was a very big and ugly barracuda! Line back in the water.  I waited, I paced, I played with the dogs, I checked the lures, checked the lines – nothing, nada. I putted around in the cabin, had a few snacks, drink of water, bathroom, I’m down in the forward cabin, stripped, ready to don my bathing suit when Wayne screams, “FISH ON”!  He puts the boat in neutral; I fly up and out on deck.  The dogs are under foot, barking their heads off, I’m topless, Wayne is asking what to do and I’m just trying to hold on to the pole for dear life. This was a big guy.  I’m reeling and reeling - something’s wrong- it’s not reeling in the line.  Great- just great! What a crappy time for the reel to screw up. Wayne came to the rescue –the line was tangled at the tip of the rod.  OK, now I got him … He jumped at least 5 times-(the fish, not Wayne) what a sight!… the boat was in neutral and the fish, not Wayne, started to go under the boat; Wayne quickly put the boat in slow forward speed in order to tire him out.
Dolphin catch - 49", 24" girth
You're gonna get fish breath - UGH !!
  We were finally able to gaff him and get him aboard. Molly did a ‘ho hum’ and acted like she sees huge fish on the deck every day – Scupper was curious but also afraid and skittish. They were both in the way and under foot and still barking. The Dolphin was flailing all around nearly hitting the girls with his big tail – blood is spattering everywhere and Wayne is trying to ask over the din if we can continue.  He was big bull, (the Dolphin, not Wayne) 49”from nose to tip of tail, 24” girth – we estimated him to be 25-30 pounds. Again, I’m cleaning!  Had to clean him on the deck as there is no other place big enough. Huge fillets enough for about 12 meals.  Problem is, the freezer’s full now and I can’t fish for a while.
Arrived at Old Bahama Bay resort & Yacht Harbor at the West End of Grand Bahama at 5:00 pm. Q-flag up. Customs closed. Let’s do happy hour and eat out as a special treat…
Ahhh…The end to a perfect first day.
West End - Grand Bahama


 

Sunday, June 10, 2007

2007 - 6/8 - 6/10 - Finally! On our way

The next morning I tentatively shifted around in bed, I sat up, I moved my hips  - virtually no back pain – no pain down my left butt!! (I love the god named Dr. Fulcher) the first epidural seems to have been successful.  It’s the first time in many, many months that I haven’t had pain.  Boy did I feel GREAT. OK, now I’m really ready to go.

Reluctantly I agreed to go food shopping while Wayne finished the installation and wiring of the TV satellite dome, the GPS and the overhead lights. They’re not ‘hot’ yet, but at least the tricky wiring in the hard top is done. I spent $194 and he said, “that’s only enough for a week – I need more snacks”! Right, next time you go…
The boat was trashed with slivers of welding material, wires, tools, food, hatches open but we were outa there at 1:20 pm with the high tide.  Anchor down at 4 pm at Long Key, a bit early, but we wanted time to clean up, make dinner and REST.  
Friday, June 8, 10:30, Anchor up - headed for the Bay side; winds were 10-15 knots but that didn’t stop us or keep the Dolphin from swimming along with us.  It’s good luck, you know.
3:30 - Under the Jew Fish Creek Bridge; 4:30 pm under the Card Sound Rd. bridge (we’re flyin now!); 6:00 pm a heavy-duty rain storm arrived just as we were maneuvering thru Buttonwood sound. Poor Wayne always gets the dirty jobs. 6:45 Anchor down at Featherbed shoals in Biscayne Bay.
Saturday, June 9.  We decided to chill a bit and clean up some more. (will this cleaning ever end?)  Wind was still up, the Bay choppy but still lots of boating traffic from Miami.  Anchor up at noon and we decided to go see our friends, Bob & Stephanie, who live just off the inter-coastal near the Haulover cut in N. Miami.  We visited them in May 2006 on our return from Lauderdale after picking up then 8 week old Scupper.  Beer Can island was Scupper’s first experience in the dinghy, on a beach and in the water.  
"Up On The Roof"
Stephanie & Me
Of course Wayne had to take Bob on top of the hard top to show him the lay out. Steph and I chatted about nursing & sipped rum-runners on the fly bridge.
I made a very impromptu fish and rice dinner with wine, of course.  We went to Beer Can island after dark with the 2 black rat dogs and a jug of – more wine. The island was full of locals camping out on the island or boat for the weekend. Everything’s a bit hazy after that but somehow Wayne took Bob & Steph to their condo in the dinghy, a 15 min. ride through a maze of canals; he managed to find his way back to the boat; took a shower on the aft deck and he doesn’t remember any of it!  Well, that’s the end of the rum-runners!
Sunday, June 10 – We thought it would be a treat to shop at Costco.  It’s been years since we shopped there and was still totally overwhelming to us. 

 It seems the 'girls' are ready to go! We're outta here