2001 - 6/18 - 6/20 - Cat Island - The Hermatage

The Hermitage on Mt. Alvernia

 Monday, 6/18  We left Conception at 10:00 and were anchored at New Bight on Cat Island, directly in front of Mount Alvernia by 5:30 pm. We swam around the boat – Wayne dove to check the anchor. Seafood for dinner and to bed early. It had been a nice run but a following sea caused a motion that prevented any activity such as reading so it was a bit boring and tiring. Tuesday, 6/19  sunny and Hot, Hot, Hot!! We came to Cat Island was to see the Hermitage which was build by Father Jerome (AKA John Hawes 1876 – 1956) Father Jerome studied architecture and switched to theology. He was ordained in the Church of England early in the twentieth century. He arrived in the Bahamas in 1908 where he traveled the islands repairing storm-devastated churches. His churches were unmistakable, always stone built with thick walls. In 1911, he went to Rome, studied Catholicism, became a priest and adopted a new name.  He then went to Australia for almost a quarter of a century. He returned to the Bahamas in 1939 and settled in New Bight where he chose the highest point in the Bahamas to build his “Hermitage”. He died seventeen years later and is buried there. It was quite an experience visiting this site after reading the history. Such a remarkable man. It was a long, hot walk up the mountain but well worth it. He carved the 12 stations of the cross along the path leading up to the church. We spent several hours just wandering around and took tons of pictures that, unfortunately, can’t adequately communicate the wonders of this holy place.It was a moving experience for me.We found a broken umbrella along the path and used it to keep the sun off us. We returned it to the same place on our way down for the next guy. On our way down we met a young couple – newlyweds – on their way up.  Oh…what it would be like to be young again and just starting out – just like on this path, they were young, just starting out and on their way up. We, on the other hand, older and on our way down. Reflections on life…guess that’s what the Hermitage did to me.We were hot and tired. I had to carry Molly most of the way. On the beach was the Bluebird Restaurant, typical of most of what you see on these small islands and just up our alley but this one had a bar and pool table and it was – you guessed it – happy hour! “Great, give me a cold one”.(See a pattern here?) The restaurant is owned by the Knowles sisters, Neacker, Grace and Jennie.  Sadly, Jennie recently had a stroke but is progressing nicely.  Neacker’s daughter represented the Bahamas in the 1993 Miss Universe Pageant. We had drinks and Wayne queried them about the history, hurricanes and politics of Cat Island which was originally called San Salvador. Wayne bought a book about the island and I bought a CD of island music. They had the usual fare for dinner, fish, chicken, cracked conch, rice and beans. We made dinner reservations for –you guessed it, 6:30. Back on the boat, we swam, showered and got “dressed up”. I wore my new dress. We returned for a wonderful dinner and a few games of pool.  Molly stayed ‘home’. There was a pay phone next to the mail boat pier and on our way back to the boat, Wayne called his son, Mike. Meanwhile, I took a picture of another magnificent sunset with our dinghy tied to the dock. The island was still recovering from Hurricane Floyd in 1999. The Bluebird restaurant had a brand-new tin roof, however, the mail boat dock was a mess and the beach road was one lane in some places. There was debris everywhere but we weren’t sure if it was from the hurricane or if the place was always this dirty.Wednesday, 6/20 As usual, the weather was perfect. We returned to shore in the morning to get fuel for the dinghy and homemade bread. Molly was hysterical, and afraid of, the goats tied up behind the gas station.