2015 - 7/23 to 9/3 - New Providence (Nassau) & Rose Island

7/23 - Anchor down about 4pm next to an uninhabited spit of land called Green Cay. It was shallow & rough.  So, we moved to the north side of nearby Rose Island, - miles of beautiful beaches, clear water & many coral patches.

We wanted to be in an isolated spot but close to Nassau so we would have no delay for Laurel to catch her plane on 7/30.

From Wikipedia: " New Providence is the most populous island in the Bahamas, containing more than 70% of the total population. It also houses the national capital city, Nassau. The island was originally under Spanish control following Christopher Columbus's discovery of the New World, but the Spanish government showed little interest in developing the island (and the Bahamas as a whole). Nassau, the island's largest city, was formerly known as Charles-town but was burned to the ground by the Spanish in 1684. It was laid out and renamed Nassau in 1695 by Nicholas Trott, the most successful Lord Proprietor, in honor of the Prince of Orange-Nassau who became William III of England. The three branches of Bahamian Government—the executive, the legislative, and the judiciary—are all headquartered on New Providence. New Providence functions as the main commercial hub of the Bahamas. It is also home to over 400 banks and trust companies; and its hotels and port account for more than two thirds of the four million-plus tourists who visit the Bahamas annually".

Wayne was anxious to get to Nassau - something about a project or projects & needing parts. (huh?) While Jay & Karen were still in the states.

We ordered a transmission heat ex-changer, main engine exhaust elbow,  gasket & a USB, unlocked, Global adapter & a GSM SIM card. Everything was shipped to Jay's friend in Miami. We learned about this unlocked USB adapter some time ago when we were anchored in Twin Breasted Pass from Liz & Rick on the motor-sailor Sorceress. It allows you to get internet access from any phone tower within 20 miles of a phone tower - we'll see... 

On 7/24, we moved over to Nassau about 1 1/2 hrs by our slow boat. We first anchored in the east end of the harbor but a storm came through in the middle of the night pushing us into the shallows & we went aground. Later that night, Laurel & Wayne re-positioned the boat - I slept through the entire event...some first mate I am! 

We moved to the south-west side of the harbor by Arawak Cay where we could hear a band practicing  & saw vendors setting up their stalls all around the beach area?? Must be a party brewing.
"Arawak Cay, also referred to as "Fish Fry", is an area in the Bahamas. It is known for its "local" eateries on West Bay Street, about 15 minutes from downtown Nassau and 25 minutes from Atlantis Paradise Island resort". It's also a busy commercial port.

Fat Tuesday on Junkanoo beach

  Wayne took us in to Fat Tuesday which is on Junkanoo beach just east of the Colonial Hotel. "Also known as the Western Esplanade, this area joins the beach at Arawak Cay and Long Wharf, the two beaches near downtown Nassau which are just a few minutes walk from the cruise ship dock. Although a popular destination for spring breakers, on Saturdays you'll find Bahamians hosting cookouts and other fund-raising activities". 
  We had our coolie-cups from the Key West Fat Tuesday in hand ready to be filled up with a tasty brew. Laurel got an order of her 'go-to' conch fritters & had fun & danced with a bunch of young kids fresh off a Carnival Ship that was in port.

At Fat Tuesday

In reality, Laurel & I just needed to get off the boat & have some girl time.
Wayne was scheduled to pick us up at the beach in front of the band stand at 5pm. WE were there - HE was not. We tried to get the band to let us use their microphone to call out to him...couldn't-they were practicing...we yelled & yelled his name...no luck. What the hell do we do now? Swim out?... & that's just what Laurel did.

The amazing Atlantis Resort

Laurel & Wayne went to the Betelco (Bahamas Telephone Co) office to activate the SIM card for a phone he purchased here in 2011. He got voice & data. I'm glad Laurel went as this stuff is way over my head & I'm not really interested.

I was flitting around the boat when the pups barked like they do when someone is close by. "HELLO?"...it was a Defense Force team wanting to board BLUE MAX. They asked if the captain was aboard. I said no, but I'm the admiral - I don't think they were amused. They said they would return when the captain was on board...well, a boarding in the Bahamas is a first for us!
These guys were serious. I freaked when I saw the rifle which they insisted they had to bring aboard.

His partner was 6'2" & could barely stand inside the boat

It sucks to realize more regulations are invading the Bahamas &, in addition, there was an over abundance of government presence on land & on the water...Defense Force; regular police with a variety of boats; Customs; Harbor Patrol - there were more but I can't remember now. Nassau harbor is not that big so we're still wondering what all these 'forces' do.

Also different 'classes' of officers on land. This handsome guy is part of the elite force.

I haven't mentioned the weather conditions because it was usually the same - hot, hot, hot (90's) with gentle breezes & once the sun sets, it makes for pleasant sleeping. Wayne installed a 2nd little fan in the forward cabin - both fans blow over the bunk making it more bearable for Laurel to sleep there.  Often, Wayne slept most of the night on our newly purchased blow-up water float on the fly bridge. 

Another girl's day out on the 28th - we walked around town - shops, liquor stores all the touristy things.

Parliament Buildings on Bay St.

This 'lady' was in a jewelry store - made us stop & look

We couldn't leave without a farewell drink at Senior Frogs.

Each ring designates their various locations - the ceiling is full of these inter-tubes

 

Laurel & the shot guy

We left a message for Paula at her work to say we'd be at the Green Parrot that night & hoped they could meet us there - they did.
Paula & Alan live in Nassau - we met them during our stay here in 2011. Paula is from Eleuthera, her mum still lives in Current. Alan is from Scotland & I love to hear his accent. 

Time was quickly running out before Laurel had to fly home...so on 7/29 she & I visited John Watling's Distillery - they make very fine rum.

Fred greeted us

We read about it in the tourist's information booklet..."complimentary tours...tour the timeless Buena Vista Estate, established in 1789. Meticulously restored to its former glory as the John Watling's Distillery...it beckons to all who wish to truly experience the Spirit of the Bahamas". Complimentary was the key word for this trip.

200 year-old & beautifully restored inside & out

An interesting, rather short walk through residential neighborhoods to get to the distillery. It was a lovely property.

Hand cut well

We blended in with a larger group who arrived before we did & were given a 'taste' of a pina colada prior to the tour made even more tasty with their rum.

Everything done by hand

 

The 'selling' room - this is Ashline - so sweet ya just had to buy something

Most everyone visited the bar after the tour. It was the last tour of the day.

Laurel & handsome Uncle Will - he has a special drink named after him. He created it 40 years ago while working in Lyford Cay. (Considered one of the world's wealthiest and most exclusive neighborhoods - western tip of New Providence)

Laurel & I were having such a good time with the staff we didn't realize everyone else had left.

The next day we moved BLUE MAX & anchored west of the west bridge & in front of the Green Parrot. We used to anchor here in past years because we got free internet from the bar/restaurant plus it was easy access to the best cheese burgers in town. Now, however, a high-end marina has been built between the Parrot and the harbor - so we were forced to anchor so far out that we were unable to get the internet. 

The Green Parrot Bar/Restaurant

Live lobsters in a tank @ The Green Parrot - They arrived after season opened 8/1

We were forced to buy net access from the new marina - Bay St. Marina @ $10/day. I'm tellin ya it's highway robbery.
Anchoring in Nassau harbor is not recommended in most of the cruising books - strong currents, tidal surge & wakes disturb the surface & the bottom is foul with debris. Where to go for our last dinner together? I suggested the Poop Deck - Wayne suggested Potter's Cay which is a spit of land, a peninsula actually, under the two bridges. It's a very busy port for freighters, the Bahama's Ferries & the mail boat.

All the islands wait for De Mail Boat Mon

So it was Potter's Cay - it is the place to go if you want to eat typical Bahamian food: conch salad, conch fritters, peas and rice, and so on, & the seafood is fresh as the day it was caught - same day in fact. The road beneath the Paradise Island bridge is a real fresh market: dozens of stands where you can watch the conch being brought in from the fishing boats.

Boat full of conch heading to Potter's to be cracked, cleaned & sold

You'll see how they are extracted from their shells - it's quite an operation involving a hammer and a knife. 
Small shack-like structures/restaurants are lined up in a semicircle inside the port. It's a one-way road for vehicles coming off Bay St. We attain access via the dinghy & tie off behind these shacks but you can't see the name of the 'restaurants' from the water. Wayne won the toss & we tied up behind one of the shacks, got off & made ourselves at home. Gude (Jude) was preparing fresh Conch salad, outside, on the 'back porch'.

Gude cleaning fresh Conch for salad - finely chopped onions, tomatoes & bell peppers are mixed with an acidic but invigorating marinade of fresh lime, sour orange juice, &fiery goat pepper- a blend which serves to partly “cook” the meat. 

 

Finished product - absolutely excellent

                              Manny was busy cooking.

This is Manny. His head cover is filled with all his hair!

It wasn't until I went out front that I saw that we were in Twin Brothers!! If you read my blog about Hatchet Bay, you'll understand. Too late to leave as we already ordered...but we were pleasantly surprised - the food was fresh & tasty certainly not like our bad experience in Hatchet Bay. 

In the meantime, over the course of several weeks, I've developed a itchy & annoying rash on my back, upper thighs & inner arms, chest & abdomen. I can only guess it's a heat rash - like babies get - it comes & goes The cost of being in paradise??

7/30 - The sad day arrived - it was time for Laurel to leave. A taxi would pick her up at the marina at 9am & take her to the airport.

That's the infamous red bag she bought in Harbor Island

All of a sudden we were alone again. We vegged & forgot to feed the pups because Laurel did that for 2 months.
I know Laurel would have been intrigued, as we were, to see small racing sailboats being towed to a freighter then hoisted up on deck...destination? The Cat Island Regatta.

The following week was actually quite boring: cloudy days with intermittent short bouts of thunder showers which cleaned the boat & filled up our fresh water tanks.
We went to the Fresh Market grocery store called Solomans, the liquor store, & had a treat of thin crust pizza at Dominoes; We also wandered around the most amazing store we've ever been in called Splash Dance. Two floors of many unusual items too difficult to explain. They also had clothing & shoes displayed in a very professional way.Wayne would have made quite a gorgeous officer don't ya think?

We were quickly told, by the owner (?) lurking in the back ground, that this hat was not for sale.

To the Green Parrot - I got an awesome Margarita & we shared a burger & a generous side of Caesar salad.

We had to defrost the freezer again - something's wrong with the seals I'm afraid.

Fueled up at Brown's marina - 270 gallons @ $3.81/gal. then moved back to Rose Island but relocated to a different spot from where had been anchored a few weeks ago.

We saw a structure on the beach & mooring balls near the beach. At first we thought it was a resort but soon realized it was a bar/restaurant called Sandy Toes. To make an otherwise long story short, we visited Sandy Toes the next three Sundays because it was such fun. I'll sum it up with pictures.

Mostly locals take a break here on Sunday

Awwww - Belongs to people who have a house around the lagoon 

Paula & Alan joined us overnight on the boat for the week-end & were with us at Sandy Toes for the 3rd visit.

Their daughter, Kayleigh, came out on a boat with a bunch of her friends. A beautiful & fun place in the middle of nowhere where many locals come on week-ends.

Kayleigh, Tyler,Lianna, James, Rachel, Jennifer

There is also ferry service to & from Nassau. during the week mostly cruise ship people come who are not as much fun as being with the locals.

Kayleigh, Paula & Alan

During the week the other beaches were barren of people. The only footprints were ours & the pups.

Scupper & Jack always have a great time & we enjoyed the most perfectly clear & refreshing water.

Fish swam all around us while at the beach - Scupper, the fish lover, went nuts trying to catch them

We traveled from Nassau to Rose several times while here.

Exhausted after a day at the beach

We've been waiting for Jay & Karen on LARGO to cross from the states to Bimini which they finally did on 8/8. We expected them to continue south to meet us in Nassau. Their plans changed - they took a slip at Great Harbor Marina in the Berry Islands for at least a month. OK...now what do WE do? Do we go north to the Berries & get our stuff & see them or have them ship our stuff to us in Nassau?  We'll have to think about it.

The week of 8/10 was like having a huge black cloud over our heads which we all experience once in awhile. It makes you be super careful of anything you do. We were still anchored off Rose Island & I was able to get internet via the tiny phone with the Batelco SIM card in it...better than nothing. Up till now, the phone was either on the charger next to the coffee maker or on the fly bridge where I could get the best reception. I did put it in my pocket when transporting it from one place to another.

When we returned from the beach the phone was not in either place. ??? We searched everywhere for it - looking even in the weirdest places like the fridge & freezer...not to be found. I would have heard it drop on the deck if it fell out of my pocket & into the water.

Two days after loosing the phone I came out on deck looking for Wayne - who often would be floating on the raft. (which is large & red in color - the raft, not Wayne) 

The raft had been securely tied to the boat with one of our long spring lines. He wasn't there & neither was the float...I searched all around the boat thinking it wandered around the side of the boat (the raft - not Wayne) on the long line. It was no where to be found.
Wayne was on the fly bridge in his favorite lounge/air chair. I asked, "where's the float?" He shrugged, "have no idea". really??? Depression, of sorts, settled in. Weird & mysterious stuff just doesn't happen to us...especially all in one week.
Silly me, I kept looking from the boat towards the horizon for any signs of the raft...for a split second I saw something red...I grabbed the binoculars & looked again & kept looking...no red...then red again. "Damn, I think I found the raft!!...quick, get dressed & take the dinghy out past the rocks-I think I see the raft".  He looked through the binoculars & said, "I think you're right"! Off he went while I watched him going around the coral patches. Turns out the rope wrapped itself around some coral which is why it didn't drift any further. OK, one mystery solved. 

The next few days were lovely beach days with the pups. However, it became a bit stormy with 25 to 30 knot winds - we moved to the west side of the island then back to Nassau Harbor. We towed the dinghy & en-route one of the tow lines broke (I hate to ask what else will happen). Once in Nassau, Wayne set out to find someone to make new lines. 
We still hadn't decided if we should go south into the Exumas or head to Great Harbor in the Berries - we stayed put in the harbor. Boring work of cleaning, scrubbing, cooking - you know the drill.
Like most boaters, we have a stackable set of cooking pots with lids. I took them out to make dinner.

 While taking them apart, here's what I found.

Really great that the mystery was solved but how the hell did the phone land up in my cooking pots??!!

8/24 - T/S Erica was rushing towards us. All the mega yachts headed for protected dockage at the Atlantis marina. We stayed put in the harbor & secured the boat the best we could. I have to say it's unnerving to listen to the media's hype about a storm & seeing others scurrying around & moving their boats. We waited & watched. Thankfully, Erika fell apart over Cuba on 8/29. We had wind gusts from 15-30 knots & some rain. Dodged another bullet.
We dragged anchor & when we pulled the anchor up it was caught on a piece of carpet!! We put out 150 ft. of chain this time.
There are only a handful of boats crazy enough to anchor in Nassau harbor &, like us, Miro was one of them. He's from Czechoslovakia - his unique custom built aluminum sailboat has two keels & was built in Germany. We very much enjoyed hearing about his adventures in Europe & other interesting places where we can only dream about cruising.
One morning Wayne heard someone calling his name but no one was in sight. ? We heard the voice again coming from the back of the boat...there was Miro hanging onto the swim platform. His dinghy motor wouldn't start so he swam over to ask for help. Using our dinghy, they towed his disabled boat to a nearby boat yard. When they arrived at the yard & turned to bring his dinghy along-side, the motor was gone! - just fell off. Well that solved Miro's dilemma whether to repair the old motor or get a new one. 
One last outing with Alan & Paula. They took us to an out-of-the-way little bar/restaurant called the Plantation. Paula said this is where 'couples' go who don't want to be seen. To me, it was a long ride but very enjoyable. 

We don't often get to see the interiors of the islands we visit. We love this kind of basic, laid-back place.

The 'kitchen'. Most cooking is done on the grill outside

 

We meet the greatest kids. Donald & Evenel with Paula & Alan

It was time to leave Nassau. We decided best not to head south during the high peak of Hurricane season (August/September). This made our decision quite easy - Great Harbor here we come. 
We enjoyed a beautiful full moon on our last days in the harbor.  Last trip ashore for food & wine &  another yummy burger at the Green Parrot. 
We moved the boat for our last visit to Rose Island on 9/2 & the next day we were underway to Chub Cay for a 7 hour cruise.

Good Bye Nassau